Inwangsan: Tranquillity in the heart of the city

When the Korean bbally-bbally lifestyle leaves your mind and body feeling drained, there can be no better place for respite than Inwangsan (인왕산), a mountain close to the centre of Seoul. The south side of Inwangsan is home to a glut of Buddhist temples and shamanist shrines, huddled together around the base of the mountain. Spend some time meandering among these sites, and the fascinating history of Inwangsan will start to reveal itself.


This legend-steeped mountain was once believed to be a roaming ground of the elusive white tiger, a creature deified in traditional Korean culture and treated with the same mysticism as dragons or phoenixes. Tigers are now extinct in the wild in Korea, but in the surroundings of Inwangsan one can conjure the image of this great prowling beast, and imagine what it would be like to catch a glimpse of one.

Perhaps the most well-known sight at Inwangsan is Seonbawi, a natural rock formation said to resemble two robed monks. This historically revered rock is worshiped as a fertility symbol and has long been visited by women hoping for a child, even until today.

Exploring the slightly ramshackle cluster of temple buildings, it’s possible to feel a closeness to nature that is sadly often lacking in the urban landscape of modern Seoul. You can even see Namsan from here, another mountain with a history of deification and worship.

Clamber a little higher over the rocks, and the hypnotic sound of Buddist prayer gives way to a euphony of birdsong. Inwangsan is a prime spot for bird watching, with many different species inhabiting the area.

Whilst not the flashiest of tourist attractions in Seoul, the spiritual atmosphere at Inwangsan provides genuine inspiration and a sense of peace. This place is a secret garden in the heart of the otherwise stressful city, and well worth a visit.


Directions: Come out of exit 2 of Dongnimmun Station (line 3), and take the first sharp left. Keep following the brown signs towards ‘Inwangsa (Temple)’ and you will come to the entrance gate after about 5 minutes.

Bonus language lesson!

인 (in) 仁 benevolent
왕 (wang) 王 king
산 (san) 山 mountain

선 (seon) 禪 Zen
바위 (bawi) rock

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